With the demise of the Upper West Side’s beloved Popover Cafe, we have been searching for a replacement for the giant crispy hot fresh popovers that came from the kitchen all day long. PS—we haven’t found one yet, but yesterday we embarked on phase one of our search–Local in the Village.

We turned off Varick and walked along Charlton past a row of really distinguished townhouses–Federal?

turned left onto Sullivan Street

and found Local, a tiny five-table coffee house that serves the full menu of local, organic, free-range, whole grain, fair traded everything–you name it.

You stand on line and order and they bring you your food.

We had called in advance and expected to find our hot crusty popovers waiting. Alas, there was only one popover left from the morning’s batch and it was no longer hot or crusty. They toasted, buttered and jammed it for us along with a really great blueberry muffin and some crunchy seven-grain bread. The iced decaf espresso was outstanding, but was the popover our holy grail?

Not yet. We did find out, however, that they do bake their own and if you turn up at 7 am on a weekday morning or 9 am on a weekend, you may indeed find the hot fresh crusty popovers we were seeking. By the way, Local’s locals like to eat at its rather charming outside seating area.

As we were down there anyway, Rory insisted on stopping at Rocco’s for his Italian cookie fix. On the way, we passed Payard Bakery on Houston, gazed at the very fine offerings

and left with two brioches au sucre for breakfast.

We moved on to Rocco’s, an old favorite, on Bleecker,

with its wonderful cookies, pastries, paninis, etc.

where once again, Rory made his selections, this time going for hazelnut biscotti

and chocolate hazelnut meringues, both excellent choices.

So, all in all,  our trip wasn’t a total loss, and we might even make it back some Saturday or Sunday morning  at 9 am for the hot popovers. After all, a quest is a quest.